Abstract
A new breaker height formula is developed based on a re-analysis of available laboratory data. The analysis shows that the breaking wave steepness is mainly governed by its deepwater wave steepness. The power form could be used to fit the relationship between breaking wave steepness and its deepwater wave steepness. This finding is new. Although the breaker height has been a subject of study for a century, no researcher has tried to relate the breaking wave steepness to the deepwater wave steepness. Bottom slope effect is included explicitly into the present formula. The present formula and existing formulas are examined and compared with a large number and wide range of published laboratory data (695 cases collected from 26 sources). Overall, the present formula gives very good predictions over a wide range of experimental conditions and is better than existing formulas.
| Original language | English |
|---|---|
| Pages (from-to) | 29-48 |
| Number of pages | 20 |
| Journal | Coastal Engineering Journal |
| Volume | 45 |
| Issue number | 1 |
| DOIs | |
| Publication status | Published - 2003 Mar |
| Externally published | Yes |
Keywords
- Breaker index
- Breaking wave
- Incipient wave breaking
- Limiting wave steepness
ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Civil and Structural Engineering
- Modelling and Simulation
- Ocean Engineering