Beach deformation model under irregular waves

Ioan Nistor*, Tomoya Shibayama

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to conferencePaperpeer-review


The aim of the present paper is to predict the changes of cross-shore beach profile under irregular waves based on a numerical model. Since laboratory experiments under random waves started to be performed, it is thus possible to compare the results of a numerical model with recent laboratory results performed using irregular waves. Three sets of laboratory data are used to check the validity of the present model. The experiments comprise random wave action on a variety of beach profiles and a large selection of wave input characteristics. The numerical model is based on the method of Shibayama and Winyu (1995). The model includes two submodels: (1) the Wave Model and (2) the Sediment Model. Two approaches have been considered in order to include the effect of wave irregularity. The first one is to use of the significant wave height and significant wave period which are calculated based on the available experimental laboratory data. The second one is to use the joint distribution of wave height and wave period based the time series analysis of the water surface elevation. The numerical results are compared with the results of the laboratory experiments. The results of different cases are compared and the potential and limitations of the proposed model and of the two approaches are discussed based on the analysis of the numerical and experimental laboratory data.

Original languageEnglish
Number of pages6
Publication statusPublished - 1997
Externally publishedYes
EventProceedings of the 1997 16th International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering. Part 1-B (of 6) - Yokohama, Jpn
Duration: 1997 Apr 131997 Apr 17


OtherProceedings of the 1997 16th International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering. Part 1-B (of 6)
CityYokohama, Jpn

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Ocean Engineering
  • Energy Engineering and Power Technology
  • Mechanical Engineering


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