In order to investigate on-offshore sediment transport mechanism and two-dimensional beach transformation, sediment movement under the agitation of wave breaking was considered. Sediment movement in the vicinity of wave breaking point was observed in a wave flume and sediment concentration was measured both in the wave flume and on natural beaches. The rate and direction of sediment transport at wave breaking point were calculated by using the data of two-dimensional beach profile change. The governing factors to determine the rate and direction are wave period, sediment fall velocity and suspended distance of sediment particles above bottom.
ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Environmental Science(all)
- Earth and Planetary Sciences(all)